Thursday, July 9, 2026

7/8/26 A Change in Course: Oslo back to Stavanger

Upon our return from Italy, Nico and I made the decision not to continue south to the Baltic but to return to the west coast of Norway. Last year, we loved the majestic mountains and the lack of crowds. We enjoyed pulling up to small pontoons and climbing the hills. Now we plan to go further north than last year, or see places we wished we had visited. So, after returning to Far and Away, we headed south out of Oslofjord and back to Stavanger. Winds were not always favorable, so we made short hops, beating against the wind, or long runs motoring in the calm. Part of the time, we traveled along the inside passage behind the outer islands, passing lovely summer homes tucked into the rocks. We had several nice anchorages in quiet coves with geese and swans swimming by.  After a windy, wet sail, we holed up in Kirstensand to wait out a day of strong winds. We went to a fabulous fish market, provisioned, and took a late afternoon hike around the peninsula, stopping to watch some young rock climbers. Kristensand was gearing up for Norway's World Cup match with big screens and hundreds of picnic tables down by the water. After a long sail to Farsund, we once again decided to stay put for the day due to strong winds that would be against us. Here we took a bus to the headland and hiked along a coastal trail past horses, cattle, sheep, llamas, and the lighthouse. Much to everyone's shock, we did not watch the World Cup match because it started at 10:00 PM and we had a 4:00 departure the next morning. We made 70 miles motoring that day (which was Nico's birthday), reaching our goal of Stavanger.


Typical summer home on an island along the southern coast


The performing arts center in Kristiansand. The Norwegian use of wood in their contemporary buildings is impressive. 


One case at the fish market in Kristiansand - mussels, whole sea scallops, caviar and salmon roe, and a seaweed salad. I am crazy over the salmon roe. I bought some to have on cream cheese and thin flatbread along with a split of champagne for our 44th anniversary.

The fish was amazing!


This is a rotor ship that we saw as we entered Farsund harbor. The vertical cylinders spin, creating a pressure difference that creates forward thrust. It reduces fuel consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.


The houses in Farsund had such lovely gardens! I felt this could be in England rather than at the tip of a major cape facing the Skagerrak.

Nico made some friends on the hike.


I was so excited to see horses at last! The lighthouse was our goal.



Back in Farsund, we played Backgammon at a waterfront park.


10:00 PM light on the buildings of Farsund...



...followed by a 5:00 AM sunrise the next day on Nico's birthday.



Friday, July 3, 2026

July 3, 2026  

A Tuscan Interlude

Although this blog is about our adventures on Far and Away, we took a vacation from our vacation to head to Tuscany for a memorable family event.  After making sure Far and Away was safe and secure at the maritime museum dock with our new friend Peter Horton looking after her, we flew to Florence, where we met up with Jack and Eugenia. After a short walk around the city and a visit to the museum at the great Duomo, we drove to a small town outside of Sienna. Eugenia's parents, Hector and Cristina Lostri, wanted to celebrate their 40th wedding anniversary and his 60th birthday by renting a large Tuscan house, Torre Palazzone. They invited twenty friends and family for a weeklong celebration called 100 Anos de Festejo. And celebrate we did! We were so honored to be invited to this international event. Most were old friends of Cristina and Hector from Buenos Aires, all of whom spoke Spanish but spoke varying degrees of English. The two of us spoke English and some Spanish, and the parents of Luca (the boyfriend of Eugenia's sister Flor), spoke Italian but hardly a word of Spanish or English! But everyone's kindness quickly bound us together as a group. 

It was a pleasantly hot week in Europe. We had long, late breakfasts with incredible tortes, fresh fruit, pastries, and cappuccinos under the shady wisteria arbor. We headed off each day in a convoy of cars to a series of hilltop towns and villages, wandered around, and then had lunch together before more exploring in the afternoon. We usually got back to Torre Palazzone around 6:00, had a cooling swim (Nico and I would then have a nap) before gathering for a festive dinner, usually with a theme - white night, costume night, the renewal of the vows celebration, Hector's birthday party, and sombrero night. The first night we watched the Argentinian World Cup match, and other nights there would be charades, dancing, or games until 1 or 2 o'clock in the morning. In addition to all of this, we were lucky to be able to spend so much time with Jack and Eugenia.


The entrance to Torre Palazzone through the lavender fields


The courtyard gate and main tower



Our room was at the very top of the tower!

The courtyard. The main kitchens were on the left, and the guest rooms, common rooms, and guest kitchen were on the right

The view from our tower room



Our table under the wisteria arbor, set for breakfast


Every day there was a new, amazing torte waiting for us


Our chef, preparing the bread oven for pizza night. She got it going six hours before dinner, and it was an extremely hot day!


Preparing the pizzas

Luca's parents arranged for a local winery in Puglia, where they live, to bottle rose and white wine for the celebration. Eugenia's sister, Flor, designed the label. She is an architect and lives in Milan with Luca .


The pool, which we were very grateful for in the heat.


The field of sunflowers on the property. As the sun moved overhead, the flowers turned towards it.


The bees loved the lavender and sunflowers. The fields were buzzing. In the evening, the powerful smell of lavender wafted towards the house.


We took a trip to the Antinori Winery. The family has been making wine for over six centuries in the Chianti region. The winery is in a 50,000-square-meter building that is mostly invisible because the vines are planted on top of it. It cost approximately 130 million dollars to build. 


Paloma, Eugenia's best childhood friend, Eugenia and Flor, at the winery.


The Duomo in Florence. I turned a corner, and there it was - an incredibly beautiful sight.


Nico, at the Ponte Vecchio. He spent half a semester studying here in the '70s and hadn't been back since.


Sienna. This is the Campo where the famous horse race is held each year. Neighborhoods compete in an emotional, terrifying race on uneven ground and tight corners.

San Gimignano is a city of towers. Families in the 1300s tried to show their importance by building the tallest tower. At one point, there were 72 towers, but now only 13 remain.


The biggest surprise was San Gimignano's Duomo, which had the entire story of the bible covering all the walls in incredible detail. Despite all the years, the fresco colors were bright, and the pictures themselves seemed modern.


The main plaza of Montepulciano. Every hillside town seemed to have a duomo and a civic building with a huge tower. Jack, Nico, and I climbed to the top of the tower among the giant bells. A kid was up there, too, and he gave one of the bells a great clang, to our astonishment.


The main plaza of Greve in Chianti.


A small hilltop village called Montefioralle.


No tourists in Montefioralle. Jack bought a small sculpture from an artist there.

Pienza


Lunch in San Gimignano





Gelato was a must on these hot days



We saw so much art. We enjoyed visiting the small town museums. 

Nico found a Caravaggio.



It was not all old! We saw a fantastic Salvador Dali exhibit in Multipulciano


The views from each town were breathtaking.

The drives through the countryside were equally fantastic.


This spot looked so beautiful that we stopped and found it was a Benedictine monastery open to the public. It had a garden with ducks, chickens, and bunnies.


The view from Multipulciano


Our wonderful hosts, Cristina and Hector


The whole group on the first night.

White night!





A bit fuzzy, but it was about 2:00 AM, and we had been dancing. Just the women danced.


Cristina and Hector renewed their vows. Eugenia and Flor each gave a heartfelt speech, and then Hector and Cristina addressed each other. I couldn't understand all the words, but the passion was clear.


It was a very emotional time









Masquerade night
 
                   
                                                                            Hat night



                                                         Lots of wonderful memories

7/8/26 A Change in Course: Oslo back to Stavanger Upon our return from Italy, Nico and I made the decision not to continue south to the Balt...