Far and Away

Nearing the End of the Chain

The last week or so we have been traveling along the chain of cays in the Northern Abacos before heading back to Florida. We visited Cave Cay, Great Sale Cay, Grand Cay and finally Double Breasted.

Food supplies were getting a little low so we were lucky to have some good fishing to supplement the canned selection. We caught a nice Mutton Snapper on our way to Cave Cay.

We had the collar, as they call it in the fish industry, with polenta, capers, dried tomatoes and some sprouts for lunch.

Then fried in cornmeal with a hot canned bean salad on the side for dinner.

Cave Cay is off the beaten track because it is located at the beginning of the very shallow Little Bahama Bank off Little Abaco. For the first time in ages there was not a soul around us, either on the water or on land. It had a very wild feeling and we didn't leave an anchor light on as usual so not to attract attention.

This little island was a good cormorant perching spot. We explored the mangrove lagoon which was interesting as usual, but no new species or excitement.

Far and Away felt very far and away.

We then sailed to Great Sale Cay. What a view as I made lunch in the galley!

I kept taking pictures of the water as we sailed along because I knew I would miss that color. Great Sale was a large cay that had a lovely wide, protected harbor. Like Cave Cay it was not inhabited (and is for sale I gather) but it is a popular spot because there is deeper water and it is a good arrival or jumping off spot from Florida. We still had time before heading home so we traveled across to the northern outer cays off Abaco. A front was coming with strong winds predicted so we wanted a protected spot. Grand Cay had a nice, enclosed harbor but when we arrived we found there was a fishing derby going on and no room at the marina. There was one mooring in the harbor we could use but the line had a cut in it. Nico dove down and supplemented it with our second anchor line which he shackled to the mooring block as insurance.

We had no issues during the blow.

Grand Cay is primarily a fishing town. A few years ago the inhabitants from Walker's Cay were relocated here when their island was destroyed by a hurricane. While we were at Grand it was Easter weekend, the fishing derby and homecoming so it was very festive. Boats kept arriving bringing families to be together for the weekend.

Some people almost had too much fun.

Big Daddy was a guy from Florida named Flannigan who loved to fish at Grand Cay. When he died he endowed a derby that was geared so the locals with small boats could be involved. Each boat had to catch one barracuda, one yellow tailed snapper, one mutton snapper, one jack, one mackerel and a grouper. His kids and their families were all there to fish in his memory.

Points were awarded to the top three biggest fish in each category to determine the overall winner but there were prizes for the heaviest in each category. They were big monetary prizes so there was great interest.

The proceeds went to the local school. We explored a classroom and I knew immediately it was a 4th or 5th grade room by the same types of posters about writing and math that I had in my room in Falmouth. It did have a picture of Queen Elizabeth under the Bahamian flag along with other local officials, as well as the Bahamian pledge, but it was still SO familiar.

It was very festive. Lots of food, drink, games and very, very loud music.

So many people smoked large Cuban cigars.

There were huge piles of empty conch shells everywhere. The fishermen would head out every morning in small skiffs.

Some had great names.

It was breezy and the frigate birds were gliding overhead.

They cleaned the fish right in the harbor so there were many rays and other birds taking an interest.

When the wind calmed down we moved to Double Crested Cay which is actually a series of cays creating lots of channels and mangrove rivers to explore by dinghy. We did some good snorkeling here. I enjoyed seeing a hogfish snapper rooting around the sea fans.

Nico did some conch diving himself.

I am always amazed by the color of the shell and the strangeness of the animal.

This time we cleaned them on the beach. The sign confused us until it was time to discard the guts. Then we made friends.

We also caught some fish. This one was lunch, steamed over rice with ginger and soy sauce -

and sprouts.

This one is in the needlefish family. We put him back but not before he clomped onto Nico's arm with those sharp teeth!

One of the smaller cays by Doubled Breasted was called Sand Cay and it was truly beautiful. That is Far and Away anchored in a shallow but sheltered spot by the flats. While were were there it was just past a full moon and there was an impressive minus tide. The pink sand flats were exposed more than usual and we had fun walking on them, finding sea biscuits, crabs, conch, lovely shells and worms.