Fair Isle

I spent my teenage years wearing Fair Isle sweaters. In my mind’s eye Fair Isle had a quaint village filled with craft shops featuring colorful knitwear. I was totally unprepared for the 3 sq. mile island of dramatic, mind blowing cliffs and thousands of puffins with no village at all. We left the swirling currents that wrap around the island and entered a tiny harbor that had room for two sailboats alongside the concrete jetty and the small ferry that does the 20 mile run to Shetland, of which Fair Isle is the southernmost island. Although I was trying to focus on the task at hand as we entered I couldn’t help but marvel that we were going through the biggest flotilla of puffins I have ever seen! After lunch we walked the island, passing the scattered crofts. The Scottish Heritage Trust owns the island and the 60 inhabitants rent from them.

Approaching from the south

The cliffs. I wish I had something to show scale.

Alongside the pier.

The ferry, The Good Shepard, arrived soon after we did. It unloaded kids bikes, fresh food and building supplies because they are in the process of rebuilding the bird research center that burned down a few years ago.

The only real harbor on the island

The sheep had been shorn the day before but the lambs were untouched. They are much smaller than others in Scotland because the weather is so harsh out here.

On our walk we passed the remains of a WWII German weather tracking plane that got shot down by the English in January. The pilot managed to get it down but clipped a stone wall and came apart. Three men died but two survived. Twice boats came to take away the prisoners but twice they wrecked. The Royal Lifeboat service finally got the job done. Nico was looking at the bullet holes.

All that is left. The pilot actually came back years later to see it and became friends with the islanders.

The wing was by the stone wall

Just scattered houses. There is a primary school, community hall, a store (she closes on Tuesdays after the ferry comes so she can restock) and two churches.

It was haying season. The deckhands on the ferry jumped into their tractors and got to work as soon as it docked.

The main road

After dinner I took a walk up the hill by the harbor. A predatory Skua swooped down and snagged a rabbit right in front of me. Then I wandered over to the puffin colony by the edge. They were not afraid and pretty much ignored my presence. I loved listening to their soft calls.

The next morning Nico and I went back for more puffin time.