The Outer Hebrides

 The Outer Hebrides are a chain of 15 inhabited islands and about 50 uninhabited ones to the west of northern Scotland. The most well known islands are Harris (Harris Tweed) and Lewis. We set sail from the lovely island of Rona (population 4) off of Skye, where we spent several days in Portree, and headed across, landing in North Uist. We worked our way north, visiting Taransay, Tarbert, Scalpay and then Stornoway. These islands are known for their gorgeous white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. It may look like the Bahamas but it certainly didn’t feel tropical! They are also known for their connection to the land and sea, for generations. The further north we went the more impressed we were with their seamanship in such a challenging area. They are able and tough.

The colorful harbor of Portree on Skye

We like to help out the local economy

The lovely, protected harbor on Rona. There are two caretakers and their wives who live there full time. We invited one couple over to the boat for a drink after the wife mentioned it had been a very quiet winter. He manages the deer herd for the owner of the island. We bought some delicious venison from them.

The landing

The entrance. There used to be two villages on the island until the laird kicked everyone off - the old story all over Scotland. 

A tremendous waterfall as we passed the north end of Skye.

I wish there was a boat to give perspective. The height is mind boggling.

Now we are on the Atlantic side of the Hebrides. It looks like my pictures from the Bahamas! This is the island of Taransay, once a thriving community and now uninhabited.

This is the busy town of Stornoway, known for its fishing boats, lifesaving boat and Coast Guard. It is also known as the place where King Charles was given a drink as an underage sea cadet, causing a huge media fuss.

I thought the town had a slight Scandinavian feel.

They get some pretty bad weather up here. The Royal Life Saving Society often gets called out on a January night during a gale to help out some poor mariner. This boat would be a sight for sore eyes if you needed assistance.

The castle was closed for a wedding but we did get to see a bunch of guys in their dress kilts and we were able to go to the attached museum of Hebridean culture. 

We also got to see more of the Lewis Chessmen. We saw some of the set in Edinburgh last summer at the National Museum. They were uncovered in a sand dune on the island of Lewis. The pieces were carved in Norway in the 12th century and I just love their expressions!

The harbor in Stornoway had quite a collection of serious sailing boats from around Europe. We met two men from the Faroe Islands and invited them over. We learned all about life in the Faroes, a country of 54,000 people and a lot of puffins. They have tunnels connecting some of the islands, one even has a roundabout under the water! They couldn’t understand the interest in viewing puffins. One of the men, whose name I can’t even begin to pronounce or spell, said “we just eat them”. I have to say he even looked like a Viking.

Certainly not the Bahamas!