7/8/26 A Change in Course: Oslo back to Stavanger

Upon our return from Italy, Nico and I made the decision not to continue south to the Baltic but to return to the west coast of Norway. Last year, we loved the majestic mountains and the lack of crowds. We enjoyed pulling up to small pontoons and climbing the hills. Now we plan to go further north than last year, or see places we wished we had visited. So, after returning to Far and Away, we headed south out of Oslofjord and back to Stavanger. Winds were not always favorable, so we made short hops, beating against the wind, or long runs motoring in the calm. Part of the time, we traveled along the inside passage behind the outer islands, passing lovely summer homes tucked into the rocks. We had several nice anchorages in quiet coves with geese and swans swimming by.  After a windy, wet sail, we holed up in Kirstensand to wait out a day of strong winds. We went to a fabulous fish market, provisioned, and took a late afternoon hike around the peninsula, stopping to watch some young rock climbers. Kristensand was gearing up for Norway's World Cup match with big screens and hundreds of picnic tables down by the water. After a long sail to Farsund, we once again decided to stay put for the day due to strong winds that would be against us. Here we took a bus to the headland and hiked along a coastal trail past horses, cattle, sheep, llamas, and the lighthouse. Much to everyone's shock, we did not watch the World Cup match because it started at 10:00 PM and we had a 4:00 departure the next morning. We made 70 miles motoring that day (which was Nico's birthday), reaching our goal of Stavanger.

Typical summer home on an island along the southern coast

The performing arts center in Kristiansand. The Norwegian use of wood in their contemporary buildings is impressive. 

One case at the fish market in Kristiansand - mussels, whole sea scallops, caviar and salmon roe, and a seaweed salad. I am crazy over the salmon roe. I bought some to have on cream cheese and thin flatbread along with a split of champagne for our 44th anniversary.

The fish was amazing!

This is a rotor ship that we saw as we entered Farsund harbor. The vertical cylinders spin, creating a pressure difference that creates forward thrust. It reduces fuel consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.

The houses in Farsund had such lovely gardens! I felt this could be in England rather than at the tip of a major cape facing the Skagerrak.

Nico made some friends on the hike.

I was so excited to see horses at last! The lighthouse was our goal.

Back in Farsund, we played Backgammon at a waterfront park.

10:00 PM light on the buildings of Farsund...

...followed by a 5:00 AM sunrise the next day on Nico's birthday.